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Hibachi FAQ 1

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This Hibachi method FAQ was published in ASH by signal11fault - the original post is located here.

Contents

[edit] Introduction

Signal11fault: "I could not find a FAQ in the archives (the website referenced sometime in 2000 was not reachable), so I wrote this up today based on my research and the practice runs I performed last night. Feel free to add to it, correct it, or provide any backup/additional information that you feel appropriate."

[edit] Warnings, considerations and suggestions

  • 1. The information contained in this document provides a method for causing death.
  • 2. Failure to succeed in causing death can cause permanent and irreversible brain damage.
  • 3. As with all forms of suicide, there is a risk of failure.
  • 4. This method can potentially endanger those that will come to find you, or other people in the immediate vicinity.
  • 5. While most information suggests that it is fairly painless, by nature of the task, it is impossible to tell with absolute certainty.
  • 6. This document should not serve as a definitive source of work on the subject, and the reader should use this information solely to aid in their own research.
  • 7. The information in this document was taken from various sources, including usenet postings, which may not be incredibly reliable. Additional references should be added where possible so the reader can gauge the reliability of the information provided.
  • 8. If you plan on taking sedatives (including alcohol), you should practice moving the equipment, sealing the room, etc in the same state that you wish to be in for the final run. Note that moving a burning grill while extremely drunk or "out-of-it" can be very dangerous in-and-of itself.
  • 9. This document is biased to performing this in a home rather than a car. I've given information I've found on using a car, but since I am using a home, your results may vary.
  • 10. I assume no liability for harm caused by distributing this information. But if you feel the need complain to me, good luck, you're probably too late because I'm already dead.

[edit] General information

Carbon monoxide is a toxic gas that is formed during the "combustion of carbon in oxygen at high temperatures when there is an excess of carbon."[1] Carbon monoxide is quite easy to generate, since burning any carbon rich material can easily create the gas.

The gas itself is "colorless, odorless, tasteless, and non-irritating, making it difficult for people to detect."[2] Because of this, when used properly (or improperly, depending on the viewpoint), it causes a relatively painless death in a fairly short amount of time.

The table below lists the carbon monoxide "parts per million" and corresponding effects.[3]

  • 35 ppm - Headache and dizziness within six to eight hours of constant exposure
  • 100 ppm - Slight headache in two to three hours
  • 200 ppm - Slight headache within two to three hours
  • 400 ppm - Frontal headache within one to two hours
  • 800 ppm - Dizziness, nausea, and convulsions within 45 minutes. Insensible within two hours.
  • 1,600 ppm - Headache, dizziness, and nausea within 20 minutes. Death in less than two hours.
  • 3,200 ppm - Headache, dizziness and nausea in five to ten minutes. Death within 30 minutes.
  • 6,400 ppm - Headache and dizziness in one to two minutes. Death in less than 20 minutes.
  • 12,800 ppm - Death in less than three minutes.

The easiest and most inexpensive method for generating carbon monoxide is by using a charcoal grill. This is the method of generation described in this document. This document does not describe the administrative tasks that should be prepared before attempting this endeavor, such as a living will, advance directive, etc.

[edit] Required items

  • A private area such as a small room or large car (hereafter known as "the room")
  • Container suitable for burning charcoal (a grill or large thick metal bucket)
  • Large amount of charcoal (30 pounds/ 13 kilograms)
  • Carbon monoxide sensor (multiple, 3 or 4 are recommended)
  • Duct tape
  • Sharpie and several pieces of paper (large paper, such as poster board, is better)
  • Large heat resistant gloves (barbecue gloves)
  • Some form of sedatives (alcohol, sleeping pils)
  • Fast-acting headache medicine
  • Large bags of ice or sports ice packs

[edit] Location

There are several subjects to take into consideration as this is one of the most important factors.

  • 1. Burning a charcoal grill in a small environment will generate quite a large amount of heat along with carbon monoxide. You should be prepared to enter a sauna like (or hotter) environment.
  • 2. The room or car should be as air-tight as possible and easily sealable.
  • 3. Carbon monoxide can be fatal even in small(er) quantities. If you do this in a home or apartment where other people live, there is a high probability of causing damage to others. The location should be isolated from all other individuals (including tenants in joined apartments).
  • 4. The ideal location should be easily ventable to an outside air source. In performing practice runs, if you cannot properly vent the room, you could cause premature CO poisoning to yourself. Ideally, you should be able to have a view into the room from outside and be able to vent the room without entering. If this is not possible, you must be prepared to act very quickly during your practice runs, and you are taking a risk or pre-mature poisoning that must be accepted.

[edit] Container

Grill: The easiest to attain container for burning charcoal is a charcoal grill. It is designed to burn charcoal and offers the mechanisms to control the burn, which is important for generating carbon monoxide. You should use a grill that has never been cooked with to prevent grease/fat drippings, etc. from igniting.

Steel bucket: If you are using a vehicle instead of a room, a large steel bucket may fit better in your environment. Ideally, you would want 2 feet of clearance from the bucket to any other object within the vehicle to help prevent the risk of fire, which would be a most painful way to go.

You should punch holes around the bottom of the bucket to allow venting similar to the vents on the bottom of a grill. There should not be too many vents, and you may need to test with multiple buckets to determine the optimum venting. When placing the bucket into the vehicle, you should set it on top of a non-flammable object that does not conduct heat very well. A cinder-block or two may be ideal for this purpose, although you should perform testing. You should also have a large metal pan (such as a baking sheet or large pizza pan) underneath the cinderblock(s) to catch any burning coals that may fall through the vent holes.

[edit] Charcoal

Since charcoal briquettes are relatively inexpensive, it does not hurt to have an extra supply. Ideally, you will be conducting multiple tests in preparation, and buying a large amount up-front will prevent you from having to go back to the store.

Non-self-starting charcoal is recommended as you may wish to add charcoal while in the room to ensure success. Using self-starting charcoal will cause the briquettes to flame and will produce smoke. (THIS NEEDS CONFIRMATION.)

[edit] Carbon monoxide sensor

There are many consumer grade carbon monoxide sensors that can be purchased for around 40 to 50 US dollars. The carbon monoxide sensor that you need will require a digital readout of the CO level. Some consumer grade sensors for home use will provide a readout up to 999 PPM. You can find commercial grade CO sensors that read much higher from Bacharach (www.bacharach-inc.com -- find the Monoxor II). These commercial grade sensors are quite a bit more expensive, however will provide you a much more accurate timeline of entering "the room" at the proper time.

[edit] Duct tape

A roll of standard (or extra thick) duct tape. The thin strip rolls of duct tape are not recommended. Its use will be explained in the section Preparation below.

[edit] Pen and paper

A thick magic marker and large sheets of paper and/or posterboard.

[edit] Heat resistant gloves

It is possible (and probable) that you will need to touch the grill or bucket to move it into position. You should have very thick gloves (oven mitts are probably not thick enough) in order to touch the grill.

[edit] Sedatives (optional)

It may be desirable to be slightly sedated when entering the room. However, if you require sedation to go through with the plan, you may not be ready anyway.

[edit] Headache medicine

The first stage of carbon monoxide poisoning produces a fairly severe headace along with flu-like symptoms. You should try to find prescription strength migraine medicine. Alternatively, using a combination of flu medicine (such as Nyquil or Thera-Flu) along with over-the-counter migraine medicine may be effective enough to lessen the headache symptoms.

[edit] Ice packs/bags of ice

As mentioned previously, the amount of heat generated from burning charcoal will be fairly uncomfortable. You should, create ice packs from large freezer ziploc bags and crushed ice. A normal bag of ice from a convenience store will be acceptable ice as well. Fill 5 - 10 ziploc bags half-full of ice and store them in the freezer until it is time to enter "the room."

Sports ice packs may work better for this purpose.

[edit] Preparation

[edit] Warning signs

Using the posterboard and marker, make MANY large signs warning others of the risk of carbon monoxide poisioning by entering the location. A suggestion:

WARNING: Toxic Levels of Carbon Monoxide
Entering this area may cause death.
Contact 9-1-1 immediately

Obviously it should be the emergency response number for your particular country.

You should duct tape this sign to the door of "the room" and preferably on the outside of an exits to the living area as well. It is possible (and probable) that the carbon monoxide will spread throughout your entire home or apartment building, so simply entering the house may be dangerous. You can expect that your friends or family will eventually come to check on you. Also, there is the distinct possibility that an emergency worker will enter the house and unknowingly poison themselves, which is usually not something to be desired.

Do not hang these signs on any exterior entryway until you are ready to enter "the room" unless you wish to take the risk that someone will find them prematurely.

You may also wish to put extra carbon monoxide sensors immediately inside the entrace to your home, so that when someone enters, they can get a readout and hear an audible alarm.

[edit] Comfort materials

Make "the room" as comfortable as possible. Place things in the room that you would like to be around as you die. Bring anything into "the room" that makes you more relaxed. The room should be prepared days before you are ready for multiple reasons. You should also place your grill in the room to make sure you have enough space to be comfortable.

  • 1. Preparedness of "the end"
  • 2. Realisation of what you are doing
  • 3. Testing

Every time you walk by "the room" in days leading up to the end, you will see the signs you have posted and objects you have placed inside. If the sight of this room makes you become nervous, you may not be ready to end your life, and that should be taken into consideration.

[edit] Sealing the room

You should seal the room as best as possible. Using duct tape and thick paper, seal all vents and sources of fresh air. If you are using a bathroom, make sure to seal the bathroom fan vent as well as the heat/AC vent. Place thick paper or carboard over the vent and duct tape the four sides. Then you should cover the entire paper that is covering the vent with duct tape.

You should have thick strips of duct tape prepared to seal the door to "the room" as well. If there is a large gap between the bottom of the door and the floor, you will need to seal this gap thoroughly. Thicker duct tape will make this easier, but you can use multiple strips of duct tape together to seal the bottom of the door. If you must use multiple strips, you should attempt to have this prepared before entering "the room."

Note that in your practice runs, you may need to quickly remove the seal on the bathroom vent fan to properly vent the room if that is the venting method you will be using. However, bathroom fans generally do not displace much air, so this process may take quite some time. It is advisable to have a strip of duct tape configured as such that pulling dangling tape is easily reachable and completely removes the obstruction from the fan.

[edit] Description of the process

  • 1. Place a carbon monoxide sensor in the room at approximately the location of where your head will be located.
  • 2. Light the charcoal on a patio, deck, or other area away from flammable materials. When lighting charcoal, a fire (ie. flames) is initially produced via lighter fluid added to the charcoal or charcoal pre-treated with fluid. When the flames go out on their own, the charcoal will "smolder" and burn a mixture of a glowing red or white. While the charcoals are actually on fire, only a small amount of CO is produced, and the coals are not ready. When all of the flames have extinguished themselves and the coals are glowing, it is ready to be placed in "the room." You should time how long it takes for the coals to become ready.
  • 3. Very carefully, move the grill/bucket into the room using the heat resistant gloves to protect your hands.
  • 4. In practice runs, you should seal the door from the outside, including any gaps at the bottom. On the final run, you will of course, seal the area from the inside.
  • 5. The carbon monoxide sensor should go off fairly quickly. They are made to save lives, and will detect small amounts of carbon monoxide and alarm accordingly. All consumer grade CO sensors will conform to the Underwriter Laborotories 2034.2 standard[4], which says:

70PPM - Alarm between 60 - 240 minutes
150PPM - Alarm between 10 - 50 minutes
400PPM - Alarm between 4 - 15 minutes

  • 6. Take any sedatives or medication in a timely enough manner for it to take effect.
  • 7. Before you are ready to enter "the room", be sure to hang up all warning signs (you may wish to do this before step 6, but you risk being "caught."
  • 8. Immediately before entering "the room," remove your ice packs from the freezer and add a small amount of water. This water will conduct the cold temperature more directly to your skin.
  • 9. After the optimal time that you've determined in the practice runs (section 6, below), you should enter the room, quickly seal the area, and get into your comfortable position. Based on the level of CO from section 2, the length of time needed to pass out will vary.

[edit] Practice runs

1. When you have everything set up in "the room," I would recommend spending the night or taking a nap in "the room" to make sure you are comfortable.
2. You should practice lighting the grill with a measured amount of charcoal and timing how long it takes for the coals to become "ready" without bringing the grill inside.
3. Place multiple sensors in various locations around the house so you can get an idea of how much carbon monoxide has escaped when you perform your checks. It is important to keep one near the location that you will be spending your time inbetween checks.
4. At 10 minute intervals, you should enter/view the room and check the level of carbon monoxide on the sensor. You should record the level on each check. It is important that you do not breathe the air in (or near) this room while you are checking the level. You should hold your breath, which may be difficult because of the heat levels. Note that if you have to enter the room, you are letting carbon monoxide escape, which negates the proper test of carbon monoxide levels. You can be assured that the levels of CO will be much higher if the door is only opened once (ie. when you enter for the last time).

NOTE FOR VEHICLES: If you are using a vehicle as "the room," this step will be much easier as you should be able to simply look in the window to read the sensor. If you are using a vehicle, do not open the door to check the levels until your last check. On your second to last check, when you are satisfied, you should open the door for the length of time it would take you to enter the vehicle, close the door, and take one last reading 10 minutes later.

These checks should occur very quickly. Before placing the *LIT* grill into "the room," you should put the grill into it's final location (again, not lit), enter the room, take the reading, and exit. This should take you no longer than 10 seconds if possible, and you should practice holding your breath to do so.

5. If after 30 minutes, the sensor does not read 1000PPM, there is a problem with an external air source, with the charcoal not burning properly, or an incorrect amount of charcoal. You may need to adjust the venting to allow more or less oxygen to the coals. Completely starving the coals for oxygen will not generate as much CO as allowing it to burn in a less oxygen deprived environment. Make sure the vents on the top and bottom are opened slightly, but not all the way. You may wish to continue checking the sensor readouts for quite some time afterward to ensure that they do not drop below 1000PPM very quickly. If you have reached a highly lethal level (6000PPM or more), it should take quite some time before this level drops.
6. When you are satisfied with the levels of CO that are generated, you should:

  1. Enter the room and quickly activate your venting mechanism (open windows, turn on fans, open all car doors, etc.).
  2. Remove the grill from the room.
  3. Re-seal the room from the external side, so your venting can occur properly. If your venting requires venting the entire house/location, you may not wish to re-seal.
  4. Move the grill as quickly as possible to an outside location.

7. You should open all external doors and windows and leave the house immediately. Place a CO sensor at the entrance so you can check it immediately upon your return. When it is safe to re-enter the house, you should check "the room" to make sure your venting has worked properly as well.
8. Repeat this test as many times as neccessary, until you have the procedure memorised.

[edit] References

  1. Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide - Section 1
  2. Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_poisoning - Overview
  3. Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_poisoning - Section 3
  4. UL 2034: Single and Multiple Station Carbon Monoxide Alarms, second edition. Table 38.1
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